I've always had this ambition to travel to Central America and so the last year we deliberated as a "group" over this plan. As a group it would be perfect, there's something for everyone and its a budget place so it wouldn't be too expensive?! Right? Wrong...
Lest we came to January and were searching flights...well I was. And a deal struck me. £469 return to Guatemala City. STA travel. You won't get it cheaper than that.
I was on the phone to Andy in an instant. He didn't have the money, but wanted to go.
In the end, I booked these flights and he would pay me back - it would be the two of us (for the time being). We later learned that some friends of his from school were also going around the same time, and had booked flights a couple of weeks later, only to pay £150 more. Funny things airlines.
I did all the planning, I was the one with the basic Spanish...I had a sneaky suspicion that Andy was kinda coming for the ride - he hardly seemed to care about this holiday and was getting anxious when certain things were left unbooked. I was trying to explain that you can't tick every box when travelling, but he comes from an unadventourous family and so that goes in one ear and out the other.
The weeks running up to Central America and the itenary seemed finalised, but a few triggers all went off at once. There were four brutal murders in Guatemala city, there was a double volcanic eruption and tropical storms in Guatemala (Ecuador was the second eruption) and Andy misread the Guatemalan embassy thinking his passport required 6 months already on his passport..something I'd never heard of in my life.
It was slightly bemusing why all these were happening at once, was it another sign that I shouldn't go; afterall the closure of Tegus airport would have prevented me from travelling there before. Did someone not want me to go? I was really worried.
Needless to say on June 14th 2010 we set off on this new journey...
Monday, 6 September 2010
Goodbyes
04/09/09
So that evening passed unbearably slow.
Did I mention WAITING for our luggage? Well lost in translation the luggage LEFT Ndola at 12! Oh sweet African time...it arrived around 5pm with Catherine. She has been fabulous, organising the truck and the free lift to the airport.
We waited ages here too...I think the anticipation with going home finally was making the waiting so unbearable.
We finally boarded the plane for Nairobi - no delays, although a mystery stop in Lilongwe! We waited here for 45 minutes and this was the point where everyone fell asleep, exhausted.
We arrived in Nairobi airport to the breaking news that it was Michael Jackson's funeral. The King died well before we left for Zambia!!! What on earth have they been doing these past weeks? The media suddenly jerked me back into the real world. It was strange to be sitting in an airport lounge surrounded by luxuries. Sure Nairobi is no Heathrow, but it has TV, lights, running water and of course the hot chocolate from Java Cafe.
...
I'm home, I feel very strange and when the adult choir arrived for the party I was not really in the mood to show them the works.
I really miss the kids. Every morning I feel like I'm about to wake up for something special. I'm about to board a bus and be stared at all through Mapalo. Children will run after the bus until they can run no more, until the bus leaves their sight.
So that evening passed unbearably slow.
Did I mention WAITING for our luggage? Well lost in translation the luggage LEFT Ndola at 12! Oh sweet African time...it arrived around 5pm with Catherine. She has been fabulous, organising the truck and the free lift to the airport.
We waited ages here too...I think the anticipation with going home finally was making the waiting so unbearable.
We finally boarded the plane for Nairobi - no delays, although a mystery stop in Lilongwe! We waited here for 45 minutes and this was the point where everyone fell asleep, exhausted.
We arrived in Nairobi airport to the breaking news that it was Michael Jackson's funeral. The King died well before we left for Zambia!!! What on earth have they been doing these past weeks? The media suddenly jerked me back into the real world. It was strange to be sitting in an airport lounge surrounded by luxuries. Sure Nairobi is no Heathrow, but it has TV, lights, running water and of course the hot chocolate from Java Cafe.
...
I'm home, I feel very strange and when the adult choir arrived for the party I was not really in the mood to show them the works.
I really miss the kids. Every morning I feel like I'm about to wake up for something special. I'm about to board a bus and be stared at all through Mapalo. Children will run after the bus until they can run no more, until the bus leaves their sight.
Sunday, 5 September 2010
The one where everyone got sick
01/09/09
So the river water kicked in...half the group got ill with some severe stomach upset on our last proper day in Zambia. I'm paranoid that I'll get it, but I only swigged some of that water. Maybe I won't.
Rain. 50 days of endless sunshine. It has been fantastic, but I can't deny that I am longing for rain the moment that I step off the plane at Heathrow. And if England obliges I know exactly what my facebook status will be...hehe.
02/09/09
What a horrendous day. The stomach bug everyone else had developed the day before, I developed (surprise surprise)...not as bad but I still felt pretty shit. I had no sleep and depressingly this was the day we had our epic 15 journey home...though it could take up to 19 hours.
I barely had enough energy to feel a fond fairwell to Lake
Tanganyka and Nkupi Lodge...the scenery was stunning but I was focussing on other matters.
When we boarded the bus it was 11am, but in typical African fashion we were delayed by 45minutes. It had also warmed up quite considerably and the street vendors had all caught on that there were Muzungus on the bus. They tried to overcram the bus with 5 people sitting on one seat...honestly Lusaka really isn't that exciting. I figured that the said families were not going as far as Lusaka...only the next villages. It should be said that the early part of the journey was very stop start. No wonder it took Kakoli 19 hours. I was beginning to think ours would be even longer.
The bus smelt of vomit and was reminiscent of a school minibus. As we made headway it had started to cool down as the windows were wide open. This was pretty pleasant, as I was feeling ill.
We reached Kasama at 4pm and waited for a ridiculous 45minutes.
It was starting to get chilly and I desperately hoped that the people around me would close their windows...they didn't and I watched the sunset and felt sad...my final sunset.
The night took forever, it was freezing and I could not sleep. I longed for Lusaka.
We suddenly reached Kabwe (the stop before) and I
could not believe how much time we'd made up...only 140km till Lusaka, although this seemed to take forever.
Finally at 5am we arrived in Lusaka. It took a little time to get our bags and with the general harrassment from the Zambian men, we finally got into our taxis. At least the taxi drivers knew where Salvation Army was!
Salvation Army was NOT prepared for our early arrival. The rooms were locked and thank God for security guards, else we'd have not been able to get into the place. It felt safe camping out on Salvi's grass, although absolutely freezing.
I actually fell asleep on the grass and before I had realised, it became light quickly. I also noticed how quickly that hour had passed. I slept comfortably in the bed until 10am and spent the rest of the daytime in Lusaka.
...
We are sleeping and doing nothing. I felt energetic for a moment when I woke up and was going to join the others in a rendez-vous with Pastor Pete and Bernard at Manderhill. I since thought better of it (stupid stomach) and played the African waiting game, for Catherine's van at 3pm.
So the river water kicked in...half the group got ill with some severe stomach upset on our last proper day in Zambia. I'm paranoid that I'll get it, but I only swigged some of that water. Maybe I won't.
Rain. 50 days of endless sunshine. It has been fantastic, but I can't deny that I am longing for rain the moment that I step off the plane at Heathrow. And if England obliges I know exactly what my facebook status will be...hehe.
02/09/09
What a horrendous day. The stomach bug everyone else had developed the day before, I developed (surprise surprise)...not as bad but I still felt pretty shit. I had no sleep and depressingly this was the day we had our epic 15 journey home...though it could take up to 19 hours.
I barely had enough energy to feel a fond fairwell to Lake
Tanganyka and Nkupi Lodge...the scenery was stunning but I was focussing on other matters.When we boarded the bus it was 11am, but in typical African fashion we were delayed by 45minutes. It had also warmed up quite considerably and the street vendors had all caught on that there were Muzungus on the bus. They tried to overcram the bus with 5 people sitting on one seat...honestly Lusaka really isn't that exciting. I figured that the said families were not going as far as Lusaka...only the next villages. It should be said that the early part of the journey was very stop start. No wonder it took Kakoli 19 hours. I was beginning to think ours would be even longer.
The bus smelt of vomit and was reminiscent of a school minibus. As we made headway it had started to cool down as the windows were wide open. This was pretty pleasant, as I was feeling ill.
We reached Kasama at 4pm and waited for a ridiculous 45minutes.
It was starting to get chilly and I desperately hoped that the people around me would close their windows...they didn't and I watched the sunset and felt sad...my final sunset.
The night took forever, it was freezing and I could not sleep. I longed for Lusaka.
We suddenly reached Kabwe (the stop before) and I
could not believe how much time we'd made up...only 140km till Lusaka, although this seemed to take forever.Finally at 5am we arrived in Lusaka. It took a little time to get our bags and with the general harrassment from the Zambian men, we finally got into our taxis. At least the taxi drivers knew where Salvation Army was!
Salvation Army was NOT prepared for our early arrival. The rooms were locked and thank God for security guards, else we'd have not been able to get into the place. It felt safe camping out on Salvi's grass, although absolutely freezing.
I actually fell asleep on the grass and before I had realised, it became light quickly. I also noticed how quickly that hour had passed. I slept comfortably in the bed until 10am and spent the rest of the daytime in Lusaka.
...
We are sleeping and doing nothing. I felt energetic for a moment when I woke up and was going to join the others in a rendez-vous with Pastor Pete and Bernard at Manderhill. I since thought better of it (stupid stomach) and played the African waiting game, for Catherine's van at 3pm.
The day of water
31/08/09
The day began early...a 6am start, with breakfast at 6.30 and an apparent departure with Jackson at 6.45. Jackson did not materialise until an ho
ur later, by which time we were regretting waking up so early and contemplating the heat that was apparent at this young hour.
We took a boat across the beautiful lake (Tanganyka). Having watched Natalie fall on the rocks, we were very cautious on climbing in. The boat journey was amazing with a cool breeze catching us every so often. Seeing the islands and the mainland in the early sun and watching the fisherman out on the lake was so pictoresque. We made it to shore, with a slight detour on the way as
the guides quizzed others for the best route to Kalambo Falls. We became dubious as to whether Jackson knew where he was going, especially as it was now 10am and very warm.
On the shore we were greeted by kids as is the norm all over Africa. As everyone wiped the sand from their shoes, we were eager to get going on the said "40 minute, slightly challenging hike". The beginning was challenging but manageable in the heat, fairly flat and step like. Then we began climbing. The climbing seemed to go on and on for ever. Scrambling up rocks that were clearly unsafe...what got me was the lack of waterfall in sight (at least with Wli we could see the waterfall) and the depressing fact that the locals were managing a balancing act whilst running up this assault course. How?!
We never lost hope as we believed that the end was over the top of the hill.
We still had miles to go. At this point I felt severley dehydtraed and we'd started walking in broad sunlight.
The episode in the sun continued for ages and I was running out of water...we then encountered another fairly steep climb, before more flat sunshine. Yet still no sign of the waterfall.
A while back we bumped into some other "Musungus" who indicated to us that we still had an hours worth of walking. So much for the 40mins...
We finally reached the waterfall at 12.30 and it was completely worth the walk. The falls were stunning. I braved the cold water and somehow clambered into the freezing water. I was not amused that the sharp rocks grazed my knee in the shallow waters, but significantly it w
as the border between Zambia and Tanzania...I've swum to Tanzania and back. Ha!
We began the epic journey back...the bit I was dreading. We took a short cut, but this didn't manage to avoid a treachorous clamber down the rocks. This was a petrifying encounter, especially as unlike Wli I had no guide to grab hold of. Ruth helped me down most of the way, although walking involved sliding on my ass!
I should also add that we drank some of the river water out of desperation as we'd run out of the pure water, so all of us were dreading cholera, bilhazia and typhoid.
The boat journey home never seemed so welcoming. The cool breeze, the occasional spray. But we quickly became aware of the ever decreasing amount of sunlight, which we'd enjoyed taking pictures of. Aided by the fact that we seemed to be running out of petrol...we were starting to get worried. Halfway across the lake, the boat did decide to break down and the sun had set in
the sky. Jackson suddenly produced these oars and attempted to row home. Quite how, I know not and it kept seeming like we were moving nowhere. We kept asking if we should phone ashore for help...land anywhere? but the guts kept paddling and we were moving somewhere, slowly.
Finally we reached dry land. I'm so thankful to the Lord for keeping us safe.
The day began early...a 6am start, with breakfast at 6.30 and an apparent departure with Jackson at 6.45. Jackson did not materialise until an ho
ur later, by which time we were regretting waking up so early and contemplating the heat that was apparent at this young hour.We took a boat across the beautiful lake (Tanganyka). Having watched Natalie fall on the rocks, we were very cautious on climbing in. The boat journey was amazing with a cool breeze catching us every so often. Seeing the islands and the mainland in the early sun and watching the fisherman out on the lake was so pictoresque. We made it to shore, with a slight detour on the way as
the guides quizzed others for the best route to Kalambo Falls. We became dubious as to whether Jackson knew where he was going, especially as it was now 10am and very warm.On the shore we were greeted by kids as is the norm all over Africa. As everyone wiped the sand from their shoes, we were eager to get going on the said "40 minute, slightly challenging hike". The beginning was challenging but manageable in the heat, fairly flat and step like. Then we began climbing. The climbing seemed to go on and on for ever. Scrambling up rocks that were clearly unsafe...what got me was the lack of waterfall in sight (at least with Wli we could see the waterfall) and the depressing fact that the locals were managing a balancing act whilst running up this assault course. How?!
We never lost hope as we believed that the end was over the top of the hill.
We still had miles to go. At this point I felt severley dehydtraed and we'd started walking in broad sunlight.
The episode in the sun continued for ages and I was running out of water...we then encountered another fairly steep climb, before more flat sunshine. Yet still no sign of the waterfall.
A while back we bumped into some other "Musungus" who indicated to us that we still had an hours worth of walking. So much for the 40mins...
We finally reached the waterfall at 12.30 and it was completely worth the walk. The falls were stunning. I braved the cold water and somehow clambered into the freezing water. I was not amused that the sharp rocks grazed my knee in the shallow waters, but significantly it w
as the border between Zambia and Tanzania...I've swum to Tanzania and back. Ha!We began the epic journey back...the bit I was dreading. We took a short cut, but this didn't manage to avoid a treachorous clamber down the rocks. This was a petrifying encounter, especially as unlike Wli I had no guide to grab hold of. Ruth helped me down most of the way, although walking involved sliding on my ass!
I should also add that we drank some of the river water out of desperation as we'd run out of the pure water, so all of us were dreading cholera, bilhazia and typhoid.
The boat journey home never seemed so welcoming. The cool breeze, the occasional spray. But we quickly became aware of the ever decreasing amount of sunlight, which we'd enjoyed taking pictures of. Aided by the fact that we seemed to be running out of petrol...we were starting to get worried. Halfway across the lake, the boat did decide to break down and the sun had set in
the sky. Jackson suddenly produced these oars and attempted to row home. Quite how, I know not and it kept seeming like we were moving nowhere. We kept asking if we should phone ashore for help...land anywhere? but the guts kept paddling and we were moving somewhere, slowly.Finally we reached dry land. I'm so thankful to the Lord for keeping us safe.
Bus Journeys
29/08/2009
Nothing much of interest happened. We spent the whole day waiting for the bus and making sure we had enough food, snacks, water etc. for the journey. We deliberated over whether we had left anything and over what time the bus would actually appear! (sweet African times!)
The bus journey was uncomfortable, sweaty and cold at the same time with Africans opening their windows all the time. The aisle was clearly not designed for the well-fed African hip and evertime we stopped for petrol or a toilet break, the movement passed my seat was highly irritating.
The journey began with "God TV" and a DVD of excessive music at a horrendous volume. The singing was appalling and even with my ipod at full volume I could still hear it. Thank God Claire asked for it to be turned down about two hours into the journey, though as we discussed we so should have done it earlier.
Although I couldn't sleep, the journey went surprisingly quick and on arrival in Mpulungu, two hours ahead of schedule, I was fully expecting to be still sitting on the bus for at least 5 more hours...
The town was warm already at 7am, a massive difference from Ndola, which had a slight chill at that time in the morning. We deliberated over getting taxis then decided that the lodge was definitely walking distance. Fortunately some locals showed us where to go...
We got to Nkupi lodge expecting the worst as Kakoli had told us that it was basic. However on arrival I completely fell in love with the place. The huts were reminiscent of those weekends away in Ghana. Little huts in pleasant, tranquil grounds. Its so peaceful.
We set out around 10am in a hunt for lunch and water and discovered how basic the village is. The hunt for water in the not quite midday sun was incredibly stressful as we could not find any anywhere.
There is definitely not much to do around here, so much for packing clubbing stuff!!!
Nothing much of interest happened. We spent the whole day waiting for the bus and making sure we had enough food, snacks, water etc. for the journey. We deliberated over whether we had left anything and over what time the bus would actually appear! (sweet African times!)
The bus journey was uncomfortable, sweaty and cold at the same time with Africans opening their windows all the time. The aisle was clearly not designed for the well-fed African hip and evertime we stopped for petrol or a toilet break, the movement passed my seat was highly irritating.
The journey began with "God TV" and a DVD of excessive music at a horrendous volume. The singing was appalling and even with my ipod at full volume I could still hear it. Thank God Claire asked for it to be turned down about two hours into the journey, though as we discussed we so should have done it earlier.
Although I couldn't sleep, the journey went surprisingly quick and on arrival in Mpulungu, two hours ahead of schedule, I was fully expecting to be still sitting on the bus for at least 5 more hours...
The town was warm already at 7am, a massive difference from Ndola, which had a slight chill at that time in the morning. We deliberated over getting taxis then decided that the lodge was definitely walking distance. Fortunately some locals showed us where to go...
We got to Nkupi lodge expecting the worst as Kakoli had told us that it was basic. However on arrival I completely fell in love with the place. The huts were reminiscent of those weekends away in Ghana. Little huts in pleasant, tranquil grounds. Its so peaceful.
We set out around 10am in a hunt for lunch and water and discovered how basic the village is. The hunt for water in the not quite midday sun was incredibly stressful as we could not find any anywhere.
There is definitely not much to do around here, so much for packing clubbing stuff!!!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
